The Eager Needler

Applique Work in India.

2011-03-22T21:23:00.000-07:00

Hello Everyone:

I am excited to begin the series on applique work in India. Applique work is practiced in many parts of India and some are more popular than others. It is mostly done by hand but sometimes, it is done on a sewing machine and later hand-embroidered. The work you see today are examples of the applique work from the state of Rajastan and are completely done by hand.

I am sure that most of you know what applique work is. It involves cutting pieces of a fabric and stitching them on top of another fabric to form a design.

This white on white/white on cream appliqued pillow cover is characteristic of Rajastani applique work. "Tree of life" which is the central design here is a widely used motif.

Here is a a close up of the bird that is appliqued. If you look closely you'll see some stitches to mark the eye and the neck of the bird.

Here is another close up of the animal that is appliqued again with a few stitches to mark the eye, neck and the body.

Next comes an interesting twist to applique - the reverse applique. It is just as or more appealing than regular applique. In reverse applique also, two layers of fabric are used. The bottom fabric is revealed when the top layer is cut, tucked under and hemmed. It is a beautiful piece, isn't it?

Here is a close up. I hope you can see how the top fabric is tucked under and stitched.

Finally, a treasured piece from my wardrobe. This piece has Rajastan written all over it!! The lower fabric is a red 'Tie and Dye', otherwise known as 'Bandhani' in India. (It is a dyeing technique practiced in Rajastan). A long strip of this fabric is first hemmed in place, and then the design is carefully cut out from the upper fabric.

I hope you can see the design better here. The applique design is continued to the sleeve as well.

Another close up of the same design.

I have more to share on applique work including a short tutorial. Will see you soon!!

Happy Embroidering,

Sukanya

Long and Short Project: All done!!!

2011-02-08T11:38:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone:

I am back to share my completed project :) ta-da .....

The project was very fulfilling and relaxing. It took a little longer than I anticipated, but mostly because I could not devote much time to it in the last few months.

For this particular stem, I began the short and long stitch at the bottom and went all the way up. This makes for a very interesting finish because there is no split stitch at the bottom.

After I completed the long and short stitch on all the stems, I went back and added a few veins in a single strand of dark green thread using stem stitch.

That's all on this project. Thanks to everyone for all your wonderful comments during this project. In my next post, I will be getting back to Indian Embroidery, talking about Applique Work.

Till then,

Happy Embroidering.

Sukanya

2011-02-01T12:41:00.000-08:00

Hello fellow bloggers and friends:

I am back to share my progress on the long and short project. Thank you all very much for those thoughtful comments and the patience!!

I am almost done with the project. And here it is.

As you can see I have about 10% of the work left before I can frame it.

Picking up from where we left off..., the first thing I did was complete the flower center in shades of yellow. It was quite simple and easy, being a small area. The stamen in French Knots was also surprisingly easy and super fast. I haven't used French knots before but it is quite easy to do.

The next part I worked on was the base of the stem in different shades of green. I divided this into three sections and outlined each section with split stitch. Next I drew guidelines, very lightly using a pencil to mark the direction of the long and short stitch. This is a very important step. It is also a good idea to draw them every time there is a change in the direction. I may have mentioned this before - I had to undo a petal completely because the direction of the stitches were wrong.
Lastly, I outlined the long stem and the turnover leaf to the right using split stitch. As you can see, I have just started working the long and short stitch on the long stem.

I am actually quite excited that I am almost at the end of the project. I hope to be done within a week. See you then!

Happy Embroidering!

Sukanya

It is been ages....

2010-10-13T21:02:00.000-07:00

A Big Hello to All the Readers,

Hope everyone is doing well! Thanks for all the comments these last few months. It has indeed been a powerful motivator!!

I initially wanted to take some time off, put away my embroidery and spend the summer with my kids. But I really did not anticipate to be gone for so long!! :) I almost had to relearn the whole process of photo editing, uploading and so on...

Well, I made some progress on my long and short project. I finished all the pink petals of the Iris and moved on to the green Sepal. I also managed to outline the yellow Stamen. Here it is...

The yellow outline is done using split stitch and this stitch is always the one recommended for long and short stitch work.

Covering large areas is definitely easier than the smaller ones. I admit, the first petal was challenging but by the time I got to the last one, my confidence and speed were up!! :) For smaller areas like the greens (after some trials) I found that reducing the length of the long and short stitch produced a better finish. Yes, it seems very logical and obvious now, but it didn't occur to me then! :)

Here is another close up of the whole area. I am about 3/4 of the way into the project. Next, I am going to be working on the yellow Stamen. Part of it involves closely bunched up 'French knots'. I am looking forward to that!! :)

If you are thinking of a long and short stitch project, please take the time to choose the threads carefully. It does matter a lot. Alright then, I will post my progress again soon. It WONT be 6 months from now!! :)

Have a wonderful weekend.

Sukanya

A project using the Long and Short Stitch.

2010-04-26T15:26:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone,

I am back after a nice family holiday. My son got to try the drawing caddy during our trip. It worked very well and he loves it!

I am currently working on a piece using the Long and Short Stitch (L&S). I have often been tempted to, but postponed trying the Long and Short stitch. Why?? Perhaps the fear of producing imperfect results. So, finally a couple of weeks ago I decided to give it a try on a "grand" scale. Why not, right? : )

Iris flower - This is my work in progress.

As the name suggests, this stitch is primarily rows of alternating long and short stitches using many shades of a color to fill a design. The result is phenomenal. The image seems to come alive. And it is very much like 'painting with a needle'.

A close-up of the above piece.

After some research on books and resources on the L&S Stitch, I found that there are quite a few to choose from. Trish Burr has written a lot of books on this topic. She even has a free project to try on her website if you are interested. Mary Corbet from Needle N Thread has some great instructions on her website that you can follow. My choice was a book titled "Royal School of Needlework Embroidery Techniques", written by the Royal School of Needlework in the UK. The book is fantastic. In fact, the design I am working on is from this book.

I am embroidering on silk fabric that has a cotton fabric backing for some stability. The threads are the regular DMC cotton strands in many shades of pink, yellow and green. BTW, the book calls for Anchor threads. I had to find the DMC equivalents.

Here is a close-up of the large petal.

The reason you are not able to clearly see the outline of the design is because I have used running stitch to trace the outline. (You can see the stitches in the picture below). This is a recommended method for silk fabrics, because pencil and pen marks cannot be easily removed.

Here is another close-up.

I am working on the petal with the scalloped edges at the moment.

Well, if you haven't tried this work yet, please do so. It is so..... satisfying. And to help you here are a few things I have learnt so far:

* Choosing the right shades is very important. It is half the battle won.

* If you are a beginner, keep your daily goals small. It is important that you get every stitch right. Believe me, removing the stitches is no fun.

* Before you begin any section, get a feel for the design. If you were to take a pencil and draw in some strokes, how would you do it? Working this stitch is very similar.

Alright then! Will post again soon with the progress and pass on any notes I make.

Sukanya

A mom and son project!

2010-04-11T21:00:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone:

What I would like to share today is a special sewing project that I did along with my son. It is a 'hanging caddy' for storing all his drawing tools in the car. My son likes to draw when we travel, even if it is a short trip to the grocery store. So I wanted to organize his crayons and markers and pencils so that they are easily accessible. And here it is...

I have only shown a few markers and pencils in the picture, but this kit can store a lot more markers, crayons, pencils, erasers, ruler and so on. I have also provided an extra row for miscellaneous things. The best part of the project are the cute buttons that I found at the craft store. The box came with buttons in all shapes - crayons, pencils, ruler and even a sharpener!! Overall, I liked the way it has turned out and my son loves it :) He is very much looking forward to our next road trip.

The kit can also be rolled and carried if necessary. The pockets are deep enough. But I am yet to finish this last part. I might add a button on each of the strips to secure them.

If you would like to make something like this, start with some simple measurements, such as the place you wish to hang the caddy. Then make a list of the things that you want to store in it, measure those as well and go from there. If you interested in making something similar to the one I have made, leave a comment or send me an e-mail at eagerneedler@gmail.com. I can send you the measurement template along with some brief instructions.

Have a fantastic week ahead!

Sukanya

Dropping in to say thanks!

2010-03-31T17:56:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone:

I just wanted to say thanks to all the readers who sent me e-mails last week requesting the Kasuti design. For one, it was nice to know that there were quite a few people interested in it. And second, it was really nice to read those encouraging and thoughtful e-mails. Thanks for taking the time!

I am currently working on a sewing project for (and with) my son!! I will post it on the blog in a few days.

Regards,

Sukanya

Embroidered Wall Hanging.

2010-03-22T10:18:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone,

Today at Eager Needler, it is an embroidered wall hanging of a Kasuti design. I recently came across a treasure!! A silk sari with a myriad of Kasuti designs :). The designs on that sari are really beautiful and some of them are quite complex. So, I spent the last few days in trying to transfer some of those designs on to a graph paper. But I did not get very far as I got sidetracked into making a embroidered wall hanging. And for it, I chose a design that I really liked and thought was quite different.

I embroidered this design on Aida fabric. Aida is a cotton fabric made for counted thread work and it works great for Kasuti. The other reason for choosing Aida was for its stiffness which made framing a little easy. I used two strands of thread throughout in plum and green colors. I made some modification to the original design. I have filled some of the octagonal shapes with cross stitch, also known as Menthi. This stitch does not appear the same on both sides. The main stitch is of course the 'double running stitch', also called 'Holbein stitch', also called 'Gavanthi'.

Initially I did not have the border. But when I framed it, there was a lot more fabric visible than I wanted. So I added a simple border and tried to tie it in with the main design. The finished design measures about 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 inches. So I chose a 8 x 10 frame and used the entire area.

Overall, I really enjoyed this 'mini' project for the home. It took me a few sittings in front of the TV to complete it :). The design is not difficult, just takes time and patience.

And finally, if you like the design, send me an email at eagerneedler@gmail.com and I will be happy to share the design with you along with some brief instructions. If you have tried some simple Kasuti designs before, then this should be simple enough!

Happy embroidering!

Till the next post,

Sukanya

Samples from the Textile Museum of Canada, Toronto.

2010-03-03T09:37:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone:

My recent discovery in Embroidery has been the Textile Museum of Canada. This museum has a huge collection of historic Embroidery from all over the world including India and it is among the best I have seen so far. Their website with the high level of zoom-in capability on pictures is simply amazing! Do check it out. Meanwhile, here is a glimpse from their Indian Embroidery section.

Copyright Warning: The pictures below were obtained from the museum directly and posted with permission from the Museum. You can link to this page but do not copy or post these pictures elsewhere.

A boy's jacket dated back to the 20th century. It is an example of the work done by the Ahir community from Gujarat, India. The embroidery is done using shishas (mirrors) and arhi work (chain stitch using the tambour needle). Brilliant piece, isn't it? I could stare at the embroidery all day!!

This is the back of the jacket.

This piece of wall hanging is also dated to the 20th century. It is an example of the work done by the Mochi community from Gujarat, India.

The embroidery is 'all over chain stitch' using the arhi (tambour needle). Very different palette of colors and finer work. I would love to have something like this on my wall.

You know, I used to live in Detroit for a few years and Toronto was an easy drive from there. I wish I had known about the museum at that time. Well, perhaps another time. Do we have any readers from Toronto or the Midwest??

Sukanya

Remove the guess work from Kutch.

2010-02-26T10:02:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone:

Based on a couple of feedbacks on the previous Kutch Tutorial, I created a second one. What is different? One, I have included pictures of almost all the steps, which is about 35 and second, it is in the form of a slide show. The first one is still available, but if you have had any doubts, then this tutorial should clear them all.

Enjoy!!

Sukanya

Kutch Tutorial - 2

2010-02-26T10:00:00.000-08:00

How to use: This is a slideshow. To start, click the play icon. The slideshow will progress slowly, with a 10 second pause between photos. To pause, mouse-over the picture, then click the pause icon. To advance through the show manually, click the previous and next icons. .

I prefer photos to videos and this is an experiment in creating a tutorial that is easy to follow using photos. If you could take a moment to let me know your thoughts, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Sukanya

Embroidered Pillow cases - Week 3

2010-02-16T08:44:00.000-08:00

Last week, I was able to finish the first pillow case, complete the outline on the second one and so much more. That's quite unusual for me. I think it was just my lucky week :)

Anyways, here is the completed pillow case. As you can see I have alternated between blue and pink colors for the flowers using running stitch. But I left the center of the flower empty so that the shape is better defined. Otherwise, it would have appeared as a mass of "something" in blue and pink.

Here is a close up of the design. I kept the filling short and far apart, because I wanted to emphasize the outline. I used three strands of threads for both the outline as well as the filling. I always mention the number of strands I use because it is an important element in embroidery (in my humble opinion). Choose the number of strands depending on the fabric and the design.

And finally, here is a picture comparing the filled and unfilled designs. Since it is a matter of personal choice, I took a photo of the second pillow case before filling it in. I prefer the one with a splash of blue and pink in it. What do you think? I would love to hear from you.

Happy stitching!

Sukanya@Eager Needler

Links to earlier posts: Embroidered Pillow Cases - Week 1.

Embroidered Pillow cases - Week 2

2010-02-09T11:37:00.000-08:00

Hello Readers:

I managed to complete the outline on the pillow case I had started a week ago. It has turned out quite nice :) Click here for a bigger image.

This week I will be working on filling in the flowers on the first pillow case and also try to get started on the second one.

For the filling, I picked bright shades of blue and pink. Unusual colors for Kantha!! I can't wait to get started. It will be interesting to see how it turns out:) I will post the finished work soon.

Have a great week ahead.

Sukanya@ Eager Needler.

Click here for Week -3

Embroidered Pillow cases.

2010-02-01T09:11:00.000-08:00

Hope everyone had a pleasant weekend! As for me, I began an embroidery project for the home. This one has been overdue for some time now. Finally I got started with it yesterday.

I am embroidering a cotton pillow case that is a very nice shade of yellow. I am using Kantha work. I used a design from an old book and modified it a little. I then traced the pattern along the edge of the pillow case. I have finished about a third of the piece.

Traditionally, the outline stitch for Kantha work is done using black thread, but I felt brown would be a better choice for my project. I am going to fill in the flowers with more colors once I complete the outline.

Now, if you are interested in Kantha work, it is very simple. After all it is predominantly running stitch. But how you work the running stitch is important. For instance, the thread going up should be longer than the thread going down. And another point - the rippled effect that is created by the running stitch is part of the charm. Don't try to distort it.

Well, hopefully I'll have completed the outline stitch in my next posting. Stay tuned!

Sukanya@Eager Needler

Click here for Week - 2

Today we travel to the Nilgiris.

2010-01-13T11:08:00.000-08:00

Hello Folks:

Hope everyone had a wonderful start to the New Year. Today we travel to South India to look at the distinctive embroidery of the Toda community.

What do you think of this red and black scarf? Beautiful, isn't it? This is a sample of the embroidery done by the Toda women. Todas are a tribal community who live in the breathtaking land of the Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu. Their traditional shawl is a white woven cloth with striking red bands with embroidery on it. This scarf is a miniature version of their traditional shawl.

Here is a closer look at the embroidery. It is done by counted thread work and so the design is the same on both sides. You are looking at the right side of the design. As you can see the designs are geometric. And so, from a distance the entire piece can easily be mistaken to be woven rather than embroidered.

Here is a look at the wrong side. Similar, yet not entirely :) Can you see why?

Take a closer look of the same motif. The stitching is flat on this side.

Now look the right side. What makes this embroidery interesting is the way it is stitched. Notice how the threads are left evenly loose, lifting the entire design a bit and giving the wearer a sense of warmth. I love the colors - bright and stunning.

Here is a look at the long strip of embroidery with a striking red band of woven fabric. The embroidery is done on the right side. I don't think the thread is knotted at the end. The crinkly thread just seem to stay up in its position.

This is the wrong side of the same design.

That's all for today. Next time you take a holiday to Tamil Nadu, be sure to pick a Toda shawl :)

Here is a link to more information about the Toda. http://www.nilgiris.tn.gov.in/

Till next time....

Sukanya

Holiday Wishes with Embroidered Cards

2009-12-14T09:53:00.000-08:00

Hello Readers,

It is that time of the year when most of us like to mail out cards wishing family and friends, even if we may not do it on a regular basis. E-cards are convenient, but there is a charm in sending an actual card. It is something that people proudly display in their houses and hold on to, for a long long time.

This year, why not make the Holidays extra special by embroidering your favorite designs on your greeting cards? Take a look at the designs in this post. You can embroider something simple in a short time or you can create something really really stunning if you have an hour or so to spare.

I have tried to keep the holiday colors in the cards - red and green. Three of the designs are in the Kasuti style. I began this project by embroidering on a piece of Aida fabric, which is stiff and can easily be mounted on to a card. It turned out quite well, but I like the embroidery better on the card itself.

Snowflake in Kasuti.

I used two strands of cotton embroidery thread and it took me about twenty minutes or so to complete the design. Embroidering on cards is actually quite simple. It will help if you punch-in the design with a needle before you begin.

Another snowflake in Kasuti.

This was done using rayon thread. I liked the rayon thread better for this project.

Hanging ornaments in Kasuti.

Using gold thread was my son's idea. He loves that thread!

I kept my favorite for last! I borrowed this design from a Chikankari design book, and used running stitch and back stitch to cover the design. It took me about 45 minutes to complete this piece.

And finally here's wishing you all! You can click here for a bigger image.

Samples of Arhi work.

2009-11-30T21:25:00.000-08:00

This is a follow up to my earlier posting on the Arhi Embroidery (Tambour Needle).

Today I would like to share a couple of samples. The first sample is a bright colored letter holder. I am sure many of you may have seen similar products at the Handicrafts fairs in India. This letter holder is made of cotton fabric and the chain stitch is done using cotton threads.

Isn't the craftsmanship beautiful? The design is well laid out, the choice of colors are good and the embroidery is very neat! A lot of care went into making this piece.

Click here to see the details.

Here is another sample of Arhi work on a salwar-kameez. Much of the distortion that you see is because the fabric kept slipping away while I was trying to photograph it. That said, there is a slight irregularity in the workmanship, probably because the fabric was stretched too tight. But overall, this piece has no flaws that stand out. Scroll down to view a close-up image of this embroidery.

The chain stitch is done using silk threads and the fabric is synthetic. The sequins are also attached using the Arhi. The stitches are small and even in size throughout the design. That is the advantage of using the arhi or the tambour needle. I like the choice of silk thread for this sample. It complements the luster of the synthetic fabric very well.

Click here if you want to read the earlier posting .

Kasuti - Circle of Friends.

2009-11-23T21:30:00.000-08:00

I received an e-mail from a friend this morning reminiscing our childhood days and India as it was in the 80's and 90's. Remember that time? There was one phrase in the e-mail that stayed in my mind all day. "We called on friends to come out and play, never rang the door bell, just went through the back door." I am also guilty of this!! I have been very fortunate to have had a great circle of friends throughout my childhood. So today's embroidery is a creation remembering all those good times with my "Circle of Friends".

If you wish to try this piece of Kasuti embroidery, here is the design and the instructions for it.

Click here if you want to print it.

My experiment with the Tambour needle.

2009-11-14T11:00:00.000-08:00

Tambour needle is the same as arhi or the cobbler's needle that is used extensively in Indian embroidery. It makes only one type of stitch - the chain stitch. For a long time I have had this desire to learn to use the tambour needle. So I bought myself a kit and began experimenting with it. I imagined that I would be sipping hot tea, listening to music, and working at ease at my homemade tambour frame. On the contrary, I was barely able to hold the thread in my left hand and twist the needle with the right! Eventually I did succeed, minus the tea and the music of course!

This is the tambour kit. It came with three needles of different sizes and an instruction sheet. The screw is used to change the needles.

Last weekend, I sat down to embroider a small design using the arhi, mostly to see if I would last that long. Here is the result. Initially it was a little challenging but when I was about halfway done, I actually started loving it!

Click here to view a larger image.

In India, arhi was originally used in the states of Gujarat and Kashmir. Now it is used by craftsmen in other states as well. In Gujarat it is believed to have started by the Mochi community (Mochi being cobbler), which primarily stitched shoes with similar needles. This technique seems to have been passed on to the Ahir community which became quite well known for their Kutchi Bharat. Their work is quite stunning! I have some samples and I will post them in a few days. Generally speaking, embroideries from Gujarat are bright with mostly primary and secondary colors (Blue, red, yellow, orange, green and purple). However, white and black are also used in Kutchi Bharat. The chain stitch is very small and is done using either cotton or silk threads (I can't imagine working with silk thread without damaging it). Arhi work can be seen on clothing, bed linen, wall hangings, letter holders, bags and so on.

In Kashmir, the embroidery done with the arhi is called Kashmiri Kashidas and quite different from the arhi work of Gujarat. The designs are mostly paisley and the thread colors, lighter. Crewel wool is used instead of cotton and silk. I will post a separate article on Kashmir embroidery so you can see the difference.

Lastly, my thoughts on the Tambour: There is a learning curve in using a tambour needle, no doubt about it. But once you cross that, it is great for working large pieces of embroidery and fast. Tambour means drum (I think in French!). It is rightly named for a frame, because the fabric has to be held as tight as a drum in order to embroider with ease. It is best if you use a frame so you have both hands free. If you choose to work with a hoop, make sure that the fabric is taut and that you can rest the hoop somewhere so that both hands are free (it is not impossible, but will slow you down).

Try it -you'll enjoy the experience!

You might also be interested in...

From the city of the Nawabs	Kasuti - Circle of Friends

Resources

2009-11-09T12:40:00.000-08:00

Here is a list of websites that may be of interest. I will try to update this page as often as possible.

Stichinfingers {An active community for anyone interested in fiber art, needlework, beading and so on.}
Embroiderer's Guild, UK {Magazines, projects and other fun stuff.}
Anuradha Vakil {Designer.}
Needle In A Haystack {Embroidery Supplies - Reference only; no personal experience}
Hard-to-Find Needlework Books {Bookstore - positive shopping experience.}
Thistle Needleworks {Embroidery Supplies - Again, reference only.}
The Caron Collection { Mainly a thread store but has other fun stuff.}

Books.

2009-11-03T14:43:00.000-08:00

I love to read and I am always looking for new books and references. So here is a list of some books that I found to be useful. These books have also been a great source of inspiration.

I have read all the books listed on this page, but if you're wondering whether I own all of them, the answer is NO! (I wish I did!! :))

Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Embroidery Stitches.
The Encyclopedia of Stitches: With 245 stitches Illustrated and 24 Exquisite Projects, by Karen Hemingway.
Reader’s Digest Complete Book of Embroidery. Includes Crewelwork, Goldwork, Ribbon Embroidery, and Embellishment by Melinda Coss.
Embroidery Techniques and Patterns by Marie-Noëlle Bayard.
Blackwork by Mary Gostelow.
Creative Surface Design by Sandy Scrivano.

Kurti with Kutch embroidery.

2009-10-30T09:07:00.000-07:00

My last trip to the mall motivated me to start sewing again. Motivation from lack of finding what I was looking for in the color of my choice, in my size, and of course in my price range. I enjoy sewing as much as embroidering, but since both of these actitvities need time, and plenty of it, I don't get to do it as often as I'd like to. But I hope to sew more often from now on.

The Kurti on the left was actually made for checking the pattern. After I stitched it and tried it on, the fit wasn't bad at all, except for a couple of small changes. So, I decided to keep it, BUT after some embroidery on it! As you can see, the print is a little busy (I mean it has very little white space). So I wanted to go with something simple and not more than an inch wide. Also, since the top was fully stitched I had some limitations on what I could do. My choice - a row of Kutch stitches evenly spaced all around the neckline along with a border.

This photo shows the whole embroidery in more detail. I used chain stitch for the border and stitched a decorative button in the center for some added interest.

This one is a close up of the individual kutch stitches.

Have a good weekend folks! Happy embroidering!

You might also be interested in...

Mirror Work Tutorial in Buttonhole Stitch	Intro to Kantha

Diwali Wishes!

2009-10-14T19:48:00.000-07:00

Diwali crept up on me when I was busy contemplating the next style. So here is a little creation observing the festival. Have a fun filled Diwali, everyone!

The special stitch on this piece... Coral Stitch for the fireworks. They are really great when you want both length and stability. I will post the tutorial for this stitch in a few days.

Ah! this photo. I found these little pot shaped lamps at a local fair just a few weeks ago. It will be a good change from the tea candles I use every year.

A closer look at the Dasara Embroidery...

2009-10-05T22:02:00.000-07:00

Hope all of you had a wonderful Dasara! This year, my husband and I set up a small "Children's Golu" for my son. I call it that because I did not have the traditional dolls with me and so the children's park and zoo became the main theme. I also had to keep it safe for my eight month old daughter. The display turned out quite well and we all had a fun time. I look forward to doing it again, perhaps bigger next year.
Anyways, I wanted to highlight a couple of filling stitches that I used in the "Kalasha" Embroidery. One is the Satin Stitch used for the mango leaves and the other is the Long and Short Stitch used for the coconut. The tutorials for both are posted in the Stitches section. Check them out!
Satin stitch, also known as Damask Stitch works very well as a filling stitch. It provides a smooth finish, and since the stitches are all so close together the texture of the thread can be used to its advantage. Satin Stitch is used In Indian Embroidery quite a bit. This stitch has a lot of variants and the Long and Short stitch is one of them. The long and short stitch is also great for covering large areas. I used this stitch in just one color, brown, along with a few streaks of black, but this stitch is more effective when used in creating those subtle shades that you see in nature. It really brings a leaf, a flower and other such elements to life.
Tutorial Picture of Satin Stitch	Tutorial Picture of Long and Short Stitch.
A glimpse of our display. I will leave the rest to your imagination!! :) Have a nice week, everyone!
.

Happy Dasara!

2009-09-20T08:46:00.000-07:00

Dasara brings such warm memories of childhood that it makes me want to be a kid again! Today's embroidery, 'Kalasha' is symbolic of Dasara as it is celebrated in South India. 'Kalasha' is a metal pot inside which are a few neatly tucked mango leaves and a coconut in the center. To me the embroidery also reminds me of my grandma. She lived in Chennai and would visit us every summer. During her stay, she would make me a special 'Kalasha' for the 'Golu' (Another South Indian tradition of proudly displaying one's collection of clay dolls, heirloom artifacts, travel souvenirs in steps). In our house, the centre piece was always grandma's meticulously decorated 'Kalasha' made from a few simple things - plastic pot, rubber ball, large gold sequins and of course, tons of pins!!

Well, whatever fond memories Dasara may bring to you, here is wishing everyone a Happy festival season!

From the City of the Nawabs...

2009-09-10T07:01:00.000-07:00

Today, we travel to Lucknow, a busy city in the state of Uttar Pradesh. This city is worth visiting for two reasons. One, the amazing monuments and second, (more important!) to shop for some beautiful Chikankari work.

Chikankari is the Indian version of Whitework and Shadow work. The designs used are generally flowers and creepers. Another very common design is the mango. The embroidery is done predominently using white cotton thread on white fabric and other pastel shades of fabrics. This style also seems to fit the description of Shadow work because it is done on transparent and semi transparent fabrics like poplin, voile and chiffon. There are many stitches used in Chikankari, some specifically for the outlines, and others for filling the pattern to create the shadow. Besides this, there are the raised stitches that stand out quite well against the flat stitches and of course the jali work.

I have barely scratched the surface of this style and I have a long way to go in exploring and experimenting. Take a look at today's samples.

This piece is probably 8 years old
and is still one of my favorites. I bought it in a small store in
Bangalore. If you ignore the pilling
in the fabric, the embroidery looks bright to this day.

Chikankari has always been practiced as a commercial trade. This design would have been transferred to the fabric using the block printing method. And later on washed to remove the color once the embroidery was completed.

This is my first creation! It was done on a semi transparent cotton fabric. The primary stitch used here is Double back stitch worked with two strands of white embroidery floss. And the needle is just the regular crewel needle. You will get the same result with the Herringbone Stitch, but then you would have to work with the reverse side of the fabric facing you. You can see the holes that the stitches have made in the picture on the right. Creating holes is part of Chikankari.

The sample on the right is another attempt at Chikankari. I just couldn't resist using additional colors! :) It looks nice, doesn't it? :)

This is also done in Double back stitch using two strands of white embroidery floss.


Chikankari is unforgiving of knots. Take the time to make small knots. Another note - let's say you are making a flower. When you finish one petal, weave your needle through the petal to start the next one. If not, the ugly long piece of thread will show through!! Well, I hope I have inspired you to try Chikankari. Happy embroidering!

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Embroidered Pillow Cases	Samples of Arhi Work

Kasuti embroidery with a touch of gold.

2009-08-26T09:25:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers,

It has been a while since my last posting. I apologize! A family holiday, end of summer and back-to-school for my son had kept me busy. Anyway, today's embroidery... Kasuti!

Checked fabrics are ideal for Kasuti embroidery. Here is a sample along with a design that you can print and try.

The design is a simple one. It is made even simpler with a checked fabric. The work is done using the double running stitch. In Kasuti, the double running stitch, when worked as a straight line is called Gavanthe. And when used in a zig zag way (that looks like little steps), it is called Muragi. The design is identical on both sides of the fabric. In the end, I added 'stars' and tiny French knots in gold thread.

Since I chose a fabric with large squares, I had enough room for the additional embellishment. But this is optional. The design will look equally nice on a plain fabric as well. You are welcome to print the design, trace it or use it as is along with the instructions.

If Kasuti is new to you, please take a look at the Kasuti Tutorial before you begin. It explains the double running stitch.

Instructions.

* First, start at the center and work on any one of the four straight lines that has the diamond at the end (the white thread in the sample) using the double running stitch. You will always end and start again at the center. Complete the other three lines. End on the reverse side.

* Next, choose any one corner of the 'three diamond' diagonal line (the black thread in the sample), close to the center of the design. Follow the design, going up and down all the way to the end and come back to finish it. You will come back to the point where you started. Then follow along on the square and make your way to the second diagonal line (there will be gaps in the square that you can fill in later). Complete the third and fourth diagonal lines in the same way. After you finish the fourth line, go backwards to finish the square. End on the reverse side.

* To finish the last step, i.e the zig zag lines worked in the green thread, you will have to work on each part separately. Choose one part, follow the design and when you reach the end, work backwards to fill the gaps. End on the reverse side as neatly as possible. Cut the thread and move to the next part.

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Kasuti - Pride of Karnataka	Kasuti Tutorial

Decorative Kutch Work Borders

2009-08-03T11:00:00.000-07:00

As I began my work on a new style yesterday, I had a change of heart. I decided to work on a couple of simple Kutch designs instead. Kutch work lends itself very well to many many designs. Here are a couple of design ideas that you could use on borders or bands.

Click here to learn this embroidery.

It was my five year old's idea to make the designs a little more colorful! He has always been curious about why I insist on using a single color thread when there is a whole basket to choose from. Well, this time I agreed to do it in the spirit of continous improvement. I think the tutorials have turned out quite well. Enjoy!!

Click here to learn this embroidery.

Kutch is usually done with a single color thread. But if you like to use two contrasting colors, go right ahead!

Before you leave this page, a question to ponder over readers ........ Why are some styles more popular than others? I think they are all equally wonderful! Yet, I find Kutch work for instance, to be one of the sought-after styles. Any thoughts? I would love to hear from you.

Mirror Work in Cretan Stitch

2009-07-22T21:30:00.000-07:00

Here is another beautiful way of attaching mirrors - using Cretan Stitch. It is decorative, super simple and it takes just under 5 minutes to attach one mirror. Try the tutorial.

Kasuti - The pride of Karnataka

2009-07-06T21:23:00.000-07:00

'Kasuti' is a style of embroidery that is practiced in the southern state of Karnataka. It is a form of counted thread embroidery.

Kasuti uses just one stitch, the running stitch. It has some unique characteristics - geometrical patterns, two thread colors and use of single strand. Motifs are similar to other styles and include chariots, temples, peacocks and flowers but they are altered so that the patterns are geometrical. If you understand the underlying concept, the embroidery is very simple and you can cover large areas in a short period of time. Kasuti work is quite popular on silk sarees and kurtas.

I suggest using a a graph paper to draw designs and a netted fabric to embroider the first few designs. The tutorial posted is done on a netted fabric.

As I write this blog, I am reminded of one of my friends in college who took such a strong liking to Kasuti that she became a full time Kasuti designer/embroiderer. It is indeed a 'cool' style!

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Holiday wishes with Embroidered Cards	Today we travel to the Nilgiris

Kutch Tutorial Videos

2009-06-23T22:18:00.000-07:00

If you would like to try the large Kutch design featured in my last post, take a look at these Kutch Tutorial videos I put on YouTube...

Kutch Design - Completed and framed!

2009-06-02T11:22:00.001-07:00

There are many end uses for a good piece of embroidery.

You could use it on table mats, cushion covers, pillow covers, letter holders OR simply hang it up on the wall!

The photo on the left is a temporary 'digital' place holder while I shop for a suitable photo frame.

Completed Kutch Design

Kutch Design - Work in Progress

2009-05-26T14:49:00.000-07:00

Here's something that I am working on right now.

In the center I have an elaborate Kutch embroidery and on all four sides just basic Kutch worked on diamond prints. I have used back stitch to connect them.
I also added more diamonds in the center to fill up some of the green space. I am not sure how they will be filled at this point. I will post my completed work ASAP!

Mirror Work

2009-05-14T15:35:00.000-07:00

Mirror work is an 'evergreen' facet of Indian Embroidery. It has always been popular. It was first introduced by the people of Gujarat.

Many types of stitches are used to hold the mirrors in place. Common ones are sheesha, buttonhole and chain. Sometimes a small white plastic ring is placed around the mirror and stitched.

Last weekend I experimented with a few different techniques. The rhinetones and beads that I used for this photograph got the attention of my five year old. He had a big smile when I told him that he could hold the mirrors in place for me. That was an afternoon well spent!!

I have posted the Buttonhole method in the tutorial section. Be sure to check it out!

Kutch Work

2009-03-01T17:54:00.000-08:00

In this article I would like to introduce KUTCH, a part of India that has contributed many wonderful embroidery styles and techniques.

Examples are Kutchi Bharat, Ahir, Heer Bharat (all over embroidery), Abhla Bharat (use of small mirrors), Chain Stitch of Bhavnagar, Sindhi Bharat (use of interlacing stitch) and Moti Bharat (use of beads). Of these the most prominent ones are Kutchi Bharat and Ahir embroideries.

A little history... Kutch is the largest district in the western state of Gujarat. It is made up of many small communities many of whom have settled here after years of migration. These communities live in isolation and each has developed its own style of embroidery, thus contributing a wide array of styles to the embroidery world.

The embroideries of this region are very bright, bold, and colorful, perhaps to beat the mood of the dry desert land. Mirrors, beads and tassels are liberally used making the embroidery very rich, yet not gaudy. Threads and fabrics traditionally used are cotton and silk. These days however, cotton fabrics and threads are favored. Some of the stitches used are chain, double buttonhole, interlacing, running, stem and herringbone.

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Kutch Work Tutorial-2	Kutch Work Border Design Tutorial-I

An introduction to Kantha

2008-11-30T18:01:00.000-08:00

Kantha work is a style from the state of Bengal that uses the simple running stitch in the most beautiful ways imaginable. It is one of my favorite styles.

The word Kantha actually means rags or waste cloth used by the women of Bengal to make quilts. A traditional Bengali woman’s sari is a soft white cotton fabric with a red border. When the sari got old and soft after several washes, it was used to make quilts. The simple running stitch was used all over the quilt to hold the layers together and also to embellish it.

Quilt making was mostly a work of leisure and art and never meant for commercial purposes. It took several women to stretch and hold several layers of the fabric together. Once this was done, these women embroidered their own designs on the quilt. The design usually began at the center of the quilt and slowly extended out.

Today, we talk about Kantha more as a style of embroidery that is done using the running stitch. Sometimes, stem and herringbone are also used. Typical thread colors are red, green, black and blue. Commonly used designs are peacocks, elephants, fish, lotus, creepers, leaves, flowers and temples.

Kutch Tutorial

2008-04-30T22:34:00.000-07:00

I used three strands of embroidery thread for Kutch work. Two strands will also work well.

Step - 1
This is the simplest form of kutch work. Trace this design on to your fabric. Do not draw the squares very big.

Step - 2
Begin by creating a grid. Bring the needle up at box 1 and pinch a tiny bit of fabric away from the center as shown.

Step - 3
Work your way to box 2. Note that the thread is passed under to go to box 3.

Step - 4
Finish box 3 and box 4. Note carefully where the threads are passed under and over.
You finish the grid near the point where you started. Pass the thread under to finish.

Step - 5
Now we move on to interlacing. Bring the needle up at the centre of the grid.

Step - 6
Again, work you way to box 2. Interlacing is all about going up or down so that you lock the threads and not let it slip.

Step - 7
Here the needle is going through the tiny loop you created earlier by pinching the fabric.

Step - 8

If done right, box 2 should look like this. Move on to box 3.

Step - 9
You will finish box 3, 4 and then come back to finish 1.

All done!!!

Satin Stitch

2008-04-30T22:26:00.000-07:00

	Let's start with a simple leaf. Outline the leaf with Back Stitch all around.
	Next mark a dividing line with Back Stitch again, but in a lighter shade.
	Start at the widest part and make the first stitch as shown. Bring the needle out at A, which is at the center of the leaf and push the needle down at B, which should be as close to the outline as possible. Bring the needle out at C and continue this way to finish the upper part of the leaf. I apologize that the the letters turned out lighter than expected.
	Once you reach the tip of the leaf, come back to the center and complete the lower part of the leaf. I like to start at the center, but you could also start at one end and work your way up if you like.
	Make the stitches as closely as possible.
	Finish the right half the same way and you are all done!!

Long and Short Stitch

2008-04-30T22:17:00.000-07:00

	I have traced the same leaf that was used for the Satin Stitch. For the Long and Short Stitch, mark a few directional lines, as shown with a light pencil.
	Begin by stitching an outline in Back Stitch.
	Work the first row with alternating long and short stitches. A and B point to the two lines marked earlier and they show the change in the direction of the stitches. Start the first long stitch on line A and finish the area below it with alternating short and long stitches. Repeat the same on line B and complete the area between B and A. Then move on to C (which is the tip of the leaf) and work a set of 'straight' long and short stitches.
	This is the same picture as the one above.,
	Notice that the stitches at C are straight.
	The right side of the leaf will just be a mirror image of the left. Use the lines as a guide.
	Once you complete the first of stitches all around, work the second row of stitches, all the same length. Try to blend the stitches with the first row so that the fabric does not show.
	Once you complete the second row all around, work the third row of stitches. The length of the stitches may become short. That's ok!
	Now we have created a gaping hole in the centre of the leaf.
	Cover it up with a row of Back Stitch in a lighter shade.

Kutch Work Border Design-2

2008-04-30T17:46:00.000-07:00

Step 1. Trace the design.

Step 2. Work the grid from left to right. The route is a little different here because of the extra diamond at the top.

Step 3. Complete the grid, working right to left.

Step 4. End by taking the needle to the reverse side.

Step 5. Begin interlacing, again left to right. We will complete the third diamond in the next step.

Step 6. Complete interlacing.

Step 7. End at the same point that you began. Tie a knot on the reverse side.

All done!!

Kutch Work Border Design-1

2008-04-30T17:36:00.000-07:00

Step 1. Trace a row of diamonds.

Step 2. Work the grid from left to right.

Step 3. Complete the grid by going back, right to left.

Step 4. Begin interlacing.

Step 5. Complete interlacing and end at the same point that you started. Tie a knot on the reverse side.

All done!!

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Kutch Work Border Tutorial-2	Kurti with Kutch Embroidery

Stem Stitch

2008-04-30T14:58:00.000-07:00

Running Stitch

2008-04-30T14:49:00.000-07:00

Mirror Work Tutorial using Cretan Stitch

2008-04-30T11:10:00.000-07:00

I have begun the tutorial directly at the Cretan Stitch. I have not included the steps for stitching the grid here. Please refer to the first two steps of the previous Mirror Work Tutorial. The method followed here is similar. You can also take a look at the Cretan Stitch if you like.

Have fun stitching!

Bring the needle up as shown.

Pass the needle, first, through the grid towards you and then OVER the thread. This is part 1 of 2 of the Cretan Stitch.

The needle does not go through the fabric at this point.

Pull the thread gently to make a small loop.

Next, make a small running stitch a little to the right. It should end near the edge of the mirror. Bring the needle up and pass the needle OVER the thread. This is part 2 of 2 of the Cretan Stitch.

Pull the thread gently. This completes the Cretan Stitch.

Continue the stitch along the entire mirror.

Part 1/2

Part 2/2

Keep the length of the stiches as even as possible.

After you have covered the entire mirror, finish off the last running stitch on the reverse side as shown. Keep the length of the stitch the same as others.

This is the reverse side for your reference.

Tie a small knot and you are all done!!

Cretan Stitch

2008-04-30T10:55:00.000-07:00

Step 1/2

Notice that the thread goes under the needle.

Step 2/2

The thread goes under the needle.

Continue the same way...

Herringbone Stitch

2008-04-30T09:32:00.000-07:00

Double Back Stitch

2008-04-30T09:30:00.000-07:00

Step 1. Double back stitch is just like the Back stitch. Except that you cross over to the second line to continue the stitch. Keep the stitches small and even.

Step 2. Work the back stitch again and cross over to the first line.

Step 3. Similar to Step 1.

This is how the back of the fabric gets filled, forming a shadow on the front. Make sure that you cut all loose threads.

This is the front of the fabric.

Basic Kasuti Tutorial

2008-04-30T09:16:00.000-07:00

Here is a tutorial for a simple Kasuti design. I have included several photos to help you understand the underlying concept of Kasuti. Once you go through these steps, you should be able to embroider most Kasuti designs. Enjoy!!

Note: Remember that Kasuti is counted thread embroidery.

This is the design. We start at the center.

Bring the needle up at the center.

Leave a fairly long thread at the back. Do not tie any knot at this point.

We begin by working on the first diamond. First go up two squares and then diagonally two squares.

Next, go up two squares. This is for the extension above the diamond (take a look at the completed picture if it is not clear).

Now come back to the same point and go down diagonally two squares.

Come back two squares to the beginning of the diamond.

Bring the needle back up to trace back and finish the diamond. This is how you get the same design on the right and wrong sides of the fabric.

Finishing the diamond......

Bring the needle back to the center.

Take a look at the reverse side of the fabric at this point. It should be the same as the front.

Follow the same steps for the second diamond.

Continue working on the diamond.....

Complete the second diamond and come back to the center.

Continue with the third diamond.

Finish up the third diamond.

Follow the same steps for the fourth diamond.

You will finish at the center.

Take the needle down at the center again (very close to the other stitches) and finish off on the wrong side.

Tie a knot at the center.

You can choose to skip the knot and just insert the threads through the stitches. Whatever method you use, make sure that the threads are secured well.

Cut the threads very close to the knot.

The design is now complete.

This is the reverse side.

Mirror Work Tutorial

2008-04-30T09:09:00.000-07:00

I have used three strands of embroidery thread. Four strands will also work well.

	Position mirror and while holding it with one hand, stitch two vertical lines in the center not too far apart.
	Stitch two horizontal lines so that they interlace with the vertical lines i.e, the horizontal lines go over and under the two vertical lines.
	We begin the buttonhole stitch. Bring the needle up 1/16 th of an inch away from the mirror. Pick up a tiny bit of fabric in a straight line toward the mirror.
	Pull the thread all the way so you make a stitch and then pass the needle under the intersection and through the stitch that you just made.
	You have just completed your first buttonhole stitch. Do not pull too hard. The loop should be visible. Go around the mirror in the same way.
	This is the half way mark. We are still using the first thread and not picked up the second thread yet.
	Now we pick up the second thread and continue the buttonhole stitch.
	All done!!
	This is the reverse side for you reference.

Buttonhole/Blanket Stitch

2008-04-30T07:05:00.000-07:00

The method for stitching Buttonhole and Blanket are the same. The gap between the stitches is more for the Blanket Stitch.

Welcome to Eager Needler!

2008-04-29T22:00:00.000-07:00

I maintain this blog to share my interest in Embroidery and to connect with other embroidery enthusiasts. You’ll see I mostly focus on Indian needlework styles, but I am also slowly discovering some of the wonderful stlyes from around the world.

Most of the work here is my own. But I am also trying to build a library. So every once in a while, you will see me showcase work from samples that I own, from friends, and work that catches my eye at handicrafts fairs.

I also like to sew, mostly women’s wear. I do it more for the embroidery opportunity it offers.

Well, that about sums it up for me. Thank you for visiting my blog. I hope you keep returning often. And please, leave your comments and feedback!

Sukanya

Tutorials

2008-04-28T20:32:00.000-07:00

Here you will find a list of "Basic" tutorials for styles listed in the Introduction to Indian Embroidery. Once you learn the basics you can build upon it very easily.

1. Kutch

2. Mirror Work - Buttonhole Stitch

3. Kasuti

4. Mirror Work - Cretan Stitch

5. Kutch Border Design - I

6. Kutch Border Design - II

Introduction to Indian Embroidery.

2008-04-28T11:03:00.000-07:00

India is very diverse in its range of Embroidery offerings. There are at least 15 different types of embroidery that I am aware of. Then there is also the Tribal Embroidery and Gold work. Here you will find a brief introduction to all these types along with samples.


Kasuti	Kutch Work	Kantha

Chikankari	Toda Embroidery	Arhi Work

Stitches

2008-04-28T10:12:00.000-07:00

Here are some of the common stitches used in Indian Embroidery.

1. Running Stitch.

2. Stem Stitch.

3. Buttonhole/Blanket Stitch.

4. Herringbone Stitch

5. Cretan Stitch

6. Double Back Stitch

7. Satin Stitch

8. Long and Short Stitch